Health and Training
In general, the Maltese is a healthy, hardy little dog, but as in so many other breeds, certain health problems can arise. However, if owners are aware of the problems that can occur, they are undoubtedly in a position to deal with them in the best manner possible. Some problems are genetic and are carried via heredity, but others are not.
Obviously, in many cases, veterinary consultation and treatment are necessary, but many Maltese owners feel that this breed responds well to herbal and homeopathic remedies, so these are well worthy of consideration. An increasing number of vets now incorporate some homeopathy and other natural healing practices with their traditional methods of treating animal patients, though you may have a harder time finding such a vet.
Licking
Sometimes even a minor irritation will cause a dog to lick at his own skin, and this can all too easily develop into a habit. In the Maltese, such licking is likely to make the white coat turn pink in color, so owners really do need to prevent this. Several good preparations are now available to dissuade a dog from licking; usually they taste rather bitter and the habit can frequently be stopped by use of such an agent.
Leg Problems
Many toy dogs and other small breeds suffer from trouble with the knee joints, known as luxating patella, though of course only a few individuals are thus affected. Responsible breeders have their breeding stock checked regularly by their vets in an endeavor to reduce the incidence. Another important factor is that a dog should not be overweight, as this is likely to make the problem worse. Many dogs with luxating patella live with this problem without experiencing pain, but surgery sometimes has to be undertaken and is often successful.
Bladder Stones
Although found only infrequently, bladder stones can sometimes cause a problem, as they are found more often in small breeds than in larger ones. Symptoms include frequent passing of urine, blood in the urine, straining to pass water, general weakness, depression and loss of appetite.
Urgent veterinary attention is necessary, for stones in the bladder can lead to irreparable kidney damage and life can be lost as a result. In many cases, stones can be dissolved by special diet under veterinary supervision, but certain types require surgical removal.
Teeth
As with many of the other smaller breeds, some Maltese lose their teeth at a relatively early age. It is therefore important to pay close attention to the care of teeth and gums so that they remain as healthy as possible, thereby preventing decay, infection and resultant loss.
Infection in the gums may not just stop there. The bacteria from this infection is carried through the bloodstream, the result of which can be disease of liver, kidney, heart and joints. This is all the more reason to realize that efficient dental care is of utmost importance throughout a dog's life. In addition to brushing and providing safe dental devices (nylon bones and the like), owners should bring their Maltese to their vets for dental checkups and thorough cleaning procedures.
Bad Breath
Offensive breath is usually the result of problems with teeth and gums, but it can also be caused by indigestion or be related to the kidneys.
In cases of digestive problems giving rise to bad breath, charcoal, either in the form of tablets or granules, can often help. A useful aid to masking bad breath is the use of chlorophyll tablets.
Eye Problems
Because the Maltese is a coated breed, hair can cause irritation to the eyeball. This can result in conjunctivitis and is very likely to cause an excess of tear production. This, in consequence, causes tear staining below the eye, something often noticed on white and light-colored dogs. Clearly, attention is therefore necessary to keep the eyes clean and this should be a routine aspect of grooming this breed.
Eye ulcers are also not unusual in small dogs and, at any sign of these, veterinary help should be sought quickly to prevent long-term damage. Often they are caused by something as simple as a bump or maybe a scratch. Veterinary prescription of suitable eye ointment or eye drops usually clears up the problem quite quickly.
Ear Problems
Helped by the fact that the Maltese is such a light-colored dog, it should be easy to detect ear problems at the earliest opportunity. Signs of an infected ear include a brown, odorous discharge that leads to the ear becoming red, inflamed and sore. At this stage, the dog will scratch at the ear and may hold his head on one side because of the pain.
It is important that ears are kept clean at all times, but if infection does arise, a vet will usually be able to prescribe suitable drops for efficient treatment.
Grass Seeds
Because they are low to the ground and have long coats and long ears, Maltese occasionally pick up grass seeds, the barbed ends of which can penetrate right into the skin. Often they are picked up on the coat, but work their way down to the skin, where they cause pain and sometimes abscesses. They can even get stuck inside the nostrils or between the pads of the feet. It is therefore always important to check the coat after a walk, particularly in late summer and autumn. At any sign of distress, the cause must be investigated immediately.
Other Health
Problems
It must be understood that there are many other health problems that can be suffered by dogs, but it is not possible to outline them all here. As you get to know your Maltese, you will also come to recognize if ever he is "off-color," at which time a quick trip to the vet can often help to "nip a problem in the bud" so that suitable care and any necessary medication may be given.
Training
Housebreaking
You can train a puppy to relieve himself wherever you choose, but this must be somewhere suitable. You should bear in mind from the outset that when your puppy is old enough to go out in public places, any canine deposits must be removed at once. You will always have to carry with you a small plastic bag or "poop-scoop."
Outdoor training includes such surfaces as grass, dirt and cement. Indoor training usually means training your dog to newspaper. When deciding on the surface and location that you will want your Maltese to use, be sure it is going to be permanent. Training your dog to grass and then changing your mind two months later is extremely difficult for both dog and owner.
Next, choose the command you will use each and every time you want your puppy to void. "Be quick," "Hurry up" and "Potty" are examples of commands commonly used by dog owners. Get in the habit of giving the puppy your chosen relief command before you take him out. That way, when he becomes an adult, you will be able to determine if he wants to go out when you ask him. A confirmation will be signs of interest, such as wagging his tail, watching you intently, going to the door, etc.
Puppy's Needs
The puppy needs to relieve himself after play periods, after each meal, after he has been sleeping and any time he indicates that he is looking for a place to urinate or defecate. The urinary and intestinal tract muscles of very young puppies are not fully developed. Therefore, like human babies, puppies need to relieve themselves frequently.
Take your puppy out often—every hour for an eight-week-old, for example, and always immediately after sleeping and eating. The older the puppy, the less often he will need to relieve himself. Finally, as a mature healthy adult, he will require only three to five relief trips per day.
Housing
Since the types of housing and control you provide for your puppy have a direct relationship on the success of house-training, we consider the various aspects of both before we begin training. Bringing a new puppy home and turning him loose in your house can be compared to turning a child loose in a sports arena and telling the child that the place is all his! The sheer enormity of the place would be too much for him to handle.
Instead, offer the puppy clearly defined areas where he can play, sleep, eat and live. A room of the house where the family gathers is the most obvious choice. Puppies are social animals and need to feel a part of the pack right from the start. Hearing your voice, watching you while you are doing things and smelling you nearby are all positive reinforcers that he is now a member of your pack. Usually a family room, the kitchen or a nearby adjoining dining area is ideal for providing safety and security for both puppy and owner.
Within that room there should be a smaller area which the puppy can call his own. An alcove, a wire or fiberglass dog crate or a fenced (not boarded!) corner from which he can view the activities of his new family will be fine. The size of the area or crate is the key factor here. The area must be large enough for the puppy to lie down and stretch out, yet small enough so that he cannot relieve himself at one end and sleep at the other without coming into contact with his droppings until fully trained to relieve himself outside. The designated area should be lined with clean bedding and a toy. Water must always be available in a non-spill container.
Dogs are, by nature, clean animals and will not remain close to their relief areas unless forced to do so. In those cases, they then become dirty dogs and usually remain that way for life.
Control
By control, we mean helping the puppy to create a lifestyle pattern that will be compatible to that of his human pack (you!). Just as we guide little children to learn our way of life, we must show the puppy when it is time to play, eat, sleep, exercise and even entertain himself.
Your puppy should always sleep in his crate. He should also learn that, during times of household confusion and excessive human activity such as at breakfast when family members are preparing for the day, he can play by himself in relative safety and comfort in his designated area. Each time you leave the puppy alone, he should understand exactly where he is to stay. You can gradually increase the time he is left alone to get him used to it. Puppies are chewers. They cannot tell the difference between things like lamp cords, television wires, shoes, table legs, etc. Chewing into a television wire, for example, can be fatal to the puppy while a shorted wire can start a fire in the house.
If the puppy chews on the arm of the chair when he is alone, you will probably discipline him angrily when you get home. Thus, he makes the association that your coming home means he is going to be punished. (He will not remember chewing the chair and is incapable of making the association of the discipline with his naughty deed.)
Other times of excitement, such as visits, family parties, etc., can be fun for the puppy, providing he can view the activities from the security of his designated area. He is not underfoot and he is not being fed all sorts of tidbits that will probably cause him stomach distress, yet he still feels a part of the fun.
Schedule
A puppy should be taken to his relief area each time he is released from his designated area, after meals, after play sessions, when he first awakens in the morning (at age eight weeks, this can mean 5 a.m.!). The puppy will indicate that he's ready "to go" by circling or sniffing busily—do not misinterpret these signs. For a puppy less than ten weeks of age, a routine of taking him out every hour is necessary. As the puppy grows, he will be able to wait for longer periods of time.
Keep trips to his relief area short. Stay no more than five or six minutes and then return to the house. If he goes during that time, praise him lavishly and take him indoors immediately. If he does not, but he has an accident when you go back indoors, pick him up immediately, say "No! No!" and return to his relief area. Wait a few minutes, then return to the house again. Never hit a puppy or put his face in urine or excrement when he has an accident!
Once indoors, put the puppy in his crate until you have had time to clean up his mess. Then release him to the family area and watch him more closely than before. Chances are, his accident was a result of your not picking up his signal or waiting too long before offering him the opportunity to relieve himself. Never hold a grudge against the puppy for accidents.
Let the puppy learn that going outdoors means it is time to relieve himself, not play. Once trained, he will be able to play indoors and out and still differentiate between the times for play versus the times for relief. Help him develop regular hours for naps, being alone, playing by himself and just resting, all in his crate. Encourage him to entertain himself while you are busy with your activities. Let him learn that having you near is comforting, but it is not your main purpose in life to provide him with undivided attention.
Each time you put your puppy in his own area, use the same command, whatever suits best. Soon, he will run to his crate or special area when he hears you say those words. Crate training provides safety for you, the puppy and the home. It also provides the puppy with a feeling of security, and that helps the puppy achieve self-confidence and clean habits.
Remember that one of the primary ingredients in house-training your puppy is control. Regardless of your lifestyle, there will always be occasions when you will need to have a place where your dog can stay and be happy and safe. Crate training is the answer for now and in the future.
In conclusion, a few key elements are really all you need for a successful house-training method—consistency, frequency, praise, control and supervision. By following these procedures with a normal, healthy puppy, you and the puppy will soon be past the stage of accidents and ready to move on to a full and rewarding life together.
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Grooming
Your Maltese will need to be groomed regularly, so it is essential that short grooming sessions be introduced from a very early age. From the very beginning, a few minutes each day should be set aside, the duration building up slowly as the puppy matures and the coat grows in length.
Different Maltese breeders use varying methods of grooming and you will undoubtedly find the particular way that suits you best. Some Maltese owners even groom their dogs on their laps, but most do so on a grooming table. It is important that the table has a non-slip surface, and under no circumstances leave your Maltese alone on the table, for he may all too easily jump off and injure himself.
When a Maltese puppy is used to standing on the table, you will probably find it useful to teach him to be rolled over onto his back. This you will do by putting your hand on the puppy’s back, your fingers pointing toward the head. The other hand will be used underneath, cupping the rib cage. Turn the Maltese puppy over gently and hold him there reassuringly, speaking to him all the while and stroking him. Do not at this early stage attempt to do anything that would hurt the puppy, for he will need to regard this as a pleasurable experience. To begin with, you must always be sure to have one hand firmly in control in case the puppy wriggles. In the event of his wriggling and turning back again, just repeat the exercise, always remembering that it is you who must have the upper hand. Be firm, but always kind and gentle.
When you know he is comfortable with this, introduce a few gentle brush strokes with your pin brush and then with a wide-toothed comb. This may take a little getting used to both for you and your puppy, but if your Maltese learns to lie over, you will more easily be able to groom in all the awkward places, paying special attention to the "armpits," the groin area and under the chin. You both will be glad you had a little patience to learn this trick from the very start!
It is worth mentioning that some people prefer their Maltese to lie over on their sides instead. This can be taught by supporting the front legs and part of the side with one hand, the back legs and hips with the other, and gently rolling the dog over on the table, allowing your own body to move over with him to make him feel at ease. Again you will need to hold him securely and reassure him gently until he is comfortable with the procedure.
Routine Grooming
To keep your Maltese looking in tip-top condition, it is important to keep the coat clean and to groom regularly, even between baths. All grooming equipment must be kept clean so that it does not snag the hair, and combs with teeth missing should never be used for they can so easily damage a coat, and worse! Never groom a coat when it is completely dry. On the occasions when you are grooming without bathing, use a fine water spray or light coat conditioner that will help to avoid removing too much coat. This will also prevent hair breakage.
Doubtless you will pick up some grooming tips from other Maltese enthusiasts if you visit shows, and in time you will undoubtedly decide upon the method that best suits you and your dog.
Either grooming on a table or, if you prefer, on your lap, work methodically through the coat, using a pure bristle brush for most of the work. Many people like to commence at the tail end and work forward, but always make sure that you work right down to the skin. If you groom only the top coat, you will find that knots form near to the skin and these can be difficult and painful to remove. If you do come across knots, which can happen, especially if debris from a walk has not been noticed immediately upon your return home, work these out with your fingers first of all. Work always from the inside outward, for if you tackle the knot the other way around it will only get tighter. Also take care never to catch the comb in the narrow bones of the tail.
When each section of the coat is groomed through, you should finish it off, either with your pin brush or comb. Finally, with the dog standing on a table, put a nice straight parting along the back, working from the neck end backwards.
Maltese with Children
Provided that parents have trained their children to treat dogs gently, being neither rough nor aggressive, most Maltese enjoy playing with youngsters. It must, though, be understood that young children should always be supervised when in the company of dogs in order that accidents do not happen, however unintentional they might be. No matter how hardy your Maltese may be, he is still a fragile few pounds that can be badly injured by a boisterous child. The small size is attractive for children, who are also usually enchanted by the pretty appearance and long flowing coat. If yours is a show dog, do take care that a child doesn’t decide to groom out (not-so-carefully) all the coat while you’re not looking!
Maltese with Other Pets
Always when one animal is introduced to another, careful supervision is essential. Most Maltese are quite prepared to associate with other animals, but a lot understandably depends on the personality of the other. An older dog or cat may not take readily to a newcomer in the household, although others accept them well. When a Maltese does find another canine or feline friend, usually the relationship is lasting and sincere. Indeed, one of the dangers is mutual grooming between animal friends, which can play havoc with the long coat of the Maltese, especially behind the ears!
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